5-things you should know about the Victoria Falls Lunar rainbow “The Moonbow”
1. What is the lunar Rainbow? The lunar rainbow is a series of night time rainbows visible in the mist of the Victoria Falls, caused by the refraction of the moon’s light reflected in the rising, swirling spray. Visitors get to experience the Victoria Falls, also known as Mosi-oa Tunya, at night, it is a surreal and very enjoyable experience. 2. When is it possible to see the Lunar rainbow? The Lunar rainbows occur during the high water period from February to August. If you are in Livingstone over the full moon, the National Heritage Commission (the body in charge of this world heritage site) will open the park from 1800-2400 the night preceding the full moon, the night of full moon and the night after the full moon. However, please be advised they will not open if the weather looks to be cloudy and there is no notice if this is the case. The cost of entry is USD 25 for non-Zambian residents. Be advised if you have been in the falls during the day, you still need to pay again to access the falls at night. Full moon Calendar 2021, park currently closed for lunar rainbow due to the Covid-19 Pandemic. 3. What to bring and where to go. Pack a picnic basket and head to the eastern viewpoints, from here the rainbows are easily seen. You can still access the rest of the park, however, the best (driest) points are from the eastern cataract. The best rainbows are seen looking into the falls from the side where the moonlight angles into the gorge. Please be courteous with your flashlights. There is absolutely no need for a light, the brightness of the moon is more than sufficient. It is annoying and rude to flash your light onto others enjoying the views, doing so impairs their night vision, treat others as you would expect to be treated. 4. Photography. Night-time falls shots are fun and provide an interesting alternative to conventional daytime shots. The most obvious rule is not to use your flash. In order to take a picture of the “Lunar Rainbows,” it is necessary to have control of the camera’s shutter and ISO settings and a tripod or bean bag set-up is essential. As a general rule of thumb, an ISO of 800 and a shutter time of 10 seconds works well. 5. Be aware of the dangers. Don’t overdo it on the beers and wine. You are obviously on the edge of a large chasm and distance perception at night can be a challenge to most people. Walk carefully in groups and keep children close at hand. There is little wildlife danger as the troops of baboons are roosting. It is perhaps the only time you can comfortably enjoy a meal in the national park without getting raided by these insatiable animals. Please be respectful and keep your voice low and your flashlight off.
The Elephant Cafe, Victoria Falls, Livingstone Zambia
The Elephant Cafe’ Supporting a herd of ten rescued elephants and located on the banks of the Zambezi River, is Zambia’s top gourmet wildlife experience “The Elephant Cafe”. A stunning combination of three exclusive experiences. An epic boat trip up the Zambezi River, an encounter with a rescue elephant herd and a gourmet meal in a salubrious setting. The Elephant Cafe’ is a heartwarming bucket list activity, taking the region by storm. Getting to The Elephant Cafe’. While you can choose to use a road transfer to access The Elephant Cafe’. By far the more preferred method is by boat. Trips depart the David Livingstone Safari Lodge and Spa Jetty. The Elephant Cafe’s guests are treated to a thirty to forty-five-minute journey through the waterways of the “Mosi-oa-tunya” National Park. These river transfers are run by “Zambezi Expeditions”. The owner of “Zambezi Expeditions” Daniel Watson drew off experience gained in Queenstown, New Zealand, in the jet boat industry. Shallow basalt rapids characterize this section and it was always deemed to be un-runnable. Along with his team of professional drivers, Dan has pioneered commercial routes up to The Elephant Cafe’. The transfers are the first commercial boat use, of that section of the park. On the boat expedition, guests can expect to see a variety of river-dwelling wildlife. Sightings of Hippo, Nile crocodile and a huge range of birdlife are common. Added to this wild aspect is the excitement of being on the Zambezi River, tackling the class-2 rapids. Expect to get lightly splashed but not drenched. The Elephant Cafe’ herd. The raison d’être for the existence of the elephant cafe’. “The Elephant Cafe’s” ten rescued African Elephants. The Elephant herd is made up of an eclectic group of African Elephants. The elephants all have varied, intriguing and different backstories. Together they make a tightly knit though unusual family herd. Complete with a variety of foibles and fascinating nuances. Unusual in the sense that the herd is comprised of breeding age females, playful youngsters, mature and immature bulls. Whereas in the wild, you wouldn’t usually see this configuration of animals. In the wild old mature males tend to be solitary, while young bulls tend to gather in small bachelor herds. The females and youngsters tend to stick together in family structured breeding herds, led by a matriarch. On arrival at The Elephant Cafe’ guests are met by the herd. Guests then have the opportunity to interact and photograph the elephants in a reward based interaction. On hand are the elephant experts to dispense information, answer questions and provide insights into the herd’s behaviour. The below brief descriptions of The Elephant Cafe’ herd, present merely the tip of the iceberg with these magnificent animals, with regard to their habits and stories. You will have to visit to hear more. The Elephant Cafe’s “Bop” and “Danny”. “Bop” and “Danny” are the two mature bulls in the herd. “Danny” though younger and smaller in body size than “Bop”, is the dominant male. “Bop” is a mellow old man, estimated to be about sixty-five years old. Due to a crack in his left tusk, “Bop” has had his tusks cut by the vet. If the crack had been left unattended the extremely sensitive nerve would have been exposed. An elephant root canal, though it has been done, is a risky and cumbersome procedure. In this case, prevention was definitely better than cure. Interestingly, one-third of the tusk is actually within the lip of the elephant, what we see is only two-thirds of the actual tusk. “Danny” has a very distinctive and huge set of ivory. He is thought to be about fifty-five years old. Both of the bulls were rescued from culling operations in Zimbabwe in the 1960’s. “Bop” and “Danni” are perhaps the first generation of rescued African elephants. The two were raised by the late legendary conservationist Clem Coetzee. Members of the Coetzee family still come and visit these old boys from time to time today. The Elephant Cafe’s “Madinda”, “Mashumbi”, “Marula” and “Lewa”. These animals are the second generation of rescue elephants. Estimated to all be in their thirties, they were rescued as calves from the severe El Nino droughts of the late 1980’s. “Marula” is a young bull and “Lewa” is a young sexually mature female. The two were rescued together and have been lifelong companions. “Lewa” likes to rumble and talk and is often seen close to “Marula”. “Marula” is a very affectionate Elephant, in part because he and “Lewa” were bottle fed as calves. “Marula” is often seen with the calves who find him comforting, especially the orphan “Sekuti”. “Madinda” is a young bull who during the droughts was rescued from a predator attack. He has half a tail and a missing portion of his ear from that encounter. Madinda is delightfully playful and many a guest has a story of “Madinda”, the dancing Elephant. “Mashumbi” is the herd’s matriarch and leader. She is also the survivor of a predator attack and is missing the tip of her tail. One of our favorite stories is her elopement. She disappeared with a bachelor herd for 18 months. Returning to The Elephant Cafe’ pregnant…with her typical nonchalant lack of fuss. While elephants are exceptionally social and the family units are close-knit. In times of drought or danger, it is not uncommon for the herd to move rapidly and cover big distances. Reaching food and water is a priority and young calves get left behind as the herd moves rapidly for survival. The calve’s mother will usually move back and forth between the calf and the herd, urging the calf to keep up, however, this distance can become vast and the mother is forced to leave her calf behind. The Elephant Cafe’s “Nandi”, “Nyami”, “Muyuni” and “Sekuti” These four are the youngsters of the herd, sexually immature sub-adults and calves. “Nandi”,”Nyami” and “Muyuni” in order of age, are the offspring of “Mashumbi” and “Lewa” sired by “Bop”. “Nandi” at eleven is the oldest, “Nyami” and “Muyuni” are a year apart
Self drive Kazungula Ferry crossing 4 by 4 by Safpar.
The Zambian and Botswana governments are currently constructing a bridge across the Zambezi at the Kazungula border. Intended to ease the massive congestion experienced here. It is rumored the bridge will be operational to some extent by 2019. However, the mooted completion date is 2021. Until then, be warned the border is exceptionally busy with truck traffic, you will see trucks backed up for kilometers before each of the respective border posts. Why is the Kazungula ferry crossing so busy? These trucks are mainly loaded with copper exports and mining supplies. Making the long trips between Africa’s Southern seaports and the Northern Zambian copper belt and the Democratic Republic of Congo. It is not uncommon for drivers to wait for five to ten days to make the crossing at the Kazungula ferry crossing. Though the average is usually five days. The drivers all have interesting stories about their trips, they tend to be a wealth of information on road conditions and regional happenings. Interestingly, during high flow years, as we are currently experiencing on the Zambezi. There is even more pressure on the ferry time as each crossing is against the current and takes even longer. What should I do in event of a problem in the border area on the Zambian side? Driving these routes is a tough job and there is a very seedy underbelly at a lot of the truck pinch points in Southern Africa. As a general rule, the senior drivers and family men will have their cook pots out in the open. Besides their vehicles, in groups, traveling/crossing together. Their trucks are usually clean and in good order. They are fiercely protective of each other and their loads. If you do have an issue, offering to pay the small fee for the truck group’s communally appointed guard, being polite and open. Will get their assistance and a good safe place to sleep in or on your vehicle. Should I queue with the trucks? As a non-commercial small vehicle at the Kazungula ferry you are free to pass the trucks; don’t queue behind the trucks on either side of the river, go straight to the border. Are both border sides difficult? Crossing into and out of Botswana at Kazungula is not really an issue. Though occasionally, there are long queues and border staff can be lethargic. Try and avoid 0700-1100 in the morning, as tourists are crossing for the “Chobe day trips”. Zambia and Botswana both operate ferry services across the Zambezi River at the Kazungula border post. At the time of publishing, Botswana has one ferry in operation. Zambia has a total of four ferries, though one is being used for the bridge construction. While two are currently down for maintenance, so only one is operational. The ferry’s nationalities are easily discernable as they carry their flags. If you are in a Zambian or Botswanian registered car, stick to your country’s ferry for a cheaper crossing. Otherwise, there is little difference from a cost point of view. However, the Botswana ferry is in a better state of repair. The huge build-up of truck traffic is due to the slow operation of the river craft. As a light non-commercial vehicle you are given preference over the trucks. Usually, it will be your vehicle and two trucks making the crossing together. Where do I park to get to the Ferry? After doing your exit formalities drive down to the loading area on the banks of the river. Park away from the trucks and wait for the ferry staff instructions. It can be chaotic, the staff on the boats are usually in overalls of some sort, and have an ID card on a neck ribbon. They may or may not acknowledge you, but they have seen you, and you will be in the line-up. Ignore obvious touts giving you mindless instructions. The staff will call you down when it is time to load. You will load first or with another light vehicle. Try and park out of the way if you can, space is at a premium and there is a lot of big vehicle shifting which could damage your vehicle. What you need to do, to board the Kazungula ferry: Unclip your seat belt. All of your passengers must get out of your vehicle and will be required to walk onto the ferry. You will be called to drive onto the ferry first, before other trucks; foot traffic/your passengers will board last. Simply drive up onto the ferry, the driver is adept at docking so the loading ramp is usually easily navigable. Be warned at some water levels it can be a high step up, or the ramp tracks may not be exactly square. If you feel you can’t get up it or may damage your vehicle. Don’t do it. Ask them to re-dock and stand your ground or take the next ferry. On the ferry, they will direct you to your spot, it is a squeeze, while you should follow the instructions of the staff, be warned if you ding your vehicle, there is no recompense from them. Keep that in mind. Once your vehicle is in position make sure the handbrake is on and it is in gear. You can then get out while they load the other vehicles. You will need to present your receipt for the ferry to the cashier on the ferry, or make payment. Why are there so many formalities? Zambia is a conduit country for stolen vehicles and the illegal movement of people. Particularly through her Northern borders, so be advised there is a lot of security and processes in place, which you have to go through. What you need to do, to enter Zambia at the Kazungula ferry crossing. Be sure to have multiple copies of all your vehicle documents and have a pen! Find a safe place to park, while theft is not a huge issue. It is a busy border with dubious perimeter security. There is potential for
Top 5 Livingstone Victoria Falls travel tips.
1) Know your Visa requirements If you are not from the SADC region and require a Visa when visiting Zambia, and the Victoria Falls, there are a few options you should be aware of depending on your itinerary. Those passport holders who qualify to purchase a visa at the port of entry have the option of a “Single entry Visa” for USD 50, a “KAZA Visa” for USD 50 or a “multiple entry Visa for USD 80. Generally speaking, the best option is the “KAZA Visa”. This allows multiple-entry travel between Zimbabwe and Zambia and a day trip to Botswana and is valid for a month. It is important you specifically ask for the “KAZA Visa” at the port of entry. Additionally, be sure to check the number of days you have been given in your passport and that of any dependents. Overstaying is a serious problem and can be easily avoided by checking the number of days before leaving the desk. Some of the entry ports can take payment by card, but this can be hit and miss. Aim to have the right cash amount on hand for your party; in the correct denominations. Check if you are eligible for a KAZA Visa on arrival here. Some nationalities will be required to apply for a visa in advance of travel to Zambia – if you are one of those passport holders who want to do more than a day-trip to Zimbabwe or Botswana. Tt would be best to apply for a multiple-entry Zambian Visa at USD 80 pp. (Please check in advance whether you need to pre-apply for a visa to your day-trip country too!) Check if you require a visa in advance of travel to Zambia here. Addendum: Please be advised that if you are NOT from one of these countries you will need to apply for a Visa for Botswana regardless of having the KAZA visa. 2) Book in advance Some activities that the region is famous for, have limited space and you could be disappointed during peak season. Be sure to book “The Elephant Café”, the microlight “Flight of the Angels” and “Devil’s Pool” in advance. Other iconic activities such as the “Whitewater rafting” and the “River cruises” can usually be booked while in the region. However, early booking confirmation allows you to make the most of your time without having to shuffle things around. 3) Plan your “Falls Day” Prior planning for your visit to “Mosi-Oa-Tunya” (the “Smoke that Thunders”) as “Victoria Falls” is locally known is important. Travelers often get carried away with everything the region has to offer. Often ending up rushing the falls in a morning before they fly out. A good way to do the “Victoria Falls” is to plan your visit around the “Devil’s pool” or the “Micro-light flight”. Both of these activities can take place early in the morning or late in the afternoon and augment a “Day of Thunder”. You can see the waterfall from these incredible vantage points and then enter the park on foot. Also be aware that around the full moon during high water, the park is open for guests to view the “moonbows”, nighttime rainbows. The cost to enter the park for this is an additional USD 30, take a small picnic and a bottle of wine; be courteous with your flashlight, you don’t need to put it on, the moon provides plenty of light. Start off with visiting the Victoria Falls from the Zambian side, entry for international visitors is USD 20 per person. Depending on the time of year, allow an hour and thirty minutes for the walk around the viewing points. If you are physically fit it is worthwhile to hike into the “boiling pot”. This is where you can view the historic Victoria Falls Bridge and the Batoka Gorge just below the face of the falls. Ask for directions from the National Heritage staff on-site. This is particularly worthwhile during the high water season from February-June. Allow an extra forty-five minutes for this and make sure you take drinking water with you. From the Zambian Falls gate, the Zambian Exit border is a short walk away. Once you have stamped out of Zambia you can easily walk to the Zimbabwean border, this is worthwhile as you can walk across the Victoria Falls bridge, which offers some great viewing opportunities. There are taxi’s, usually charging about USD 3 per taxi if you would rather not tackle the 1.3km walk. On the way across the bridge, you can stop at the “Bridge Café” for a beer or refreshment. From here you have a great view of the bridge and the bungee jumpers. As you stamp into Zimbabwe the entrance to the Victoria Falls is a 100 meters from the border. The Entry Fee is USD 30 per person for International Residents and USD 20 for SADC Residents. Allow for 2 hours to view the falls from this side. Once this is done, a “High Tea” at the colonial era “Victoria Falls Hotel” is a great experience. The hotel is about a 10-minute walk from the Victoria Falls entrance. The balcony area looks onto the Victoria Falls in the distance and the hotel itself is worth a look around. Complete the day with a cocktail at “The Royal Livingstone” deck, back in Zambia, this hotel has an unhindered view of the spray from the falls and is a salubrious end to a great day. 4) What to bring. Livingstone can be really cold from May-July in the evenings and early mornings, while the rest of the year it is generally hot. Hats and sunscreen are a must year round. The “rainy” season is from November to Mid-April. Livingstone is not a high malaria area, if you choose to use them, be cautious with your choice of prophylactic and discuss the side effects with your Doctor. Doxycycline, in particular, seems to have issues with sun sensitivity in a lot of people and you will
