Zambezi Experience- A Canoe Safari
Many hear about Safpar’s game drives through the Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park, but have you ever explored the idea of spotting wildlife by canoe? I did and boy, was it an experience and a half. Paddling down the famous, historic river in the footsteps of David Livingstone and many other explorers deep in the heart of Africa filled me with a sense of excitement. The adventurer in me was ready, despite my nerves. They say ignorance is bliss, but ignorant I’m not. Some of the world’s most feared predators lurk in the depths of the Zambezi such as the hippo, claiming status as one of the worlds’ most dangerous animals. The crocodile too, who’s winning Darwin’s survival of the fittest challenge in my opinion after 200 million years. Taking a canoe safari on the Zambezi is the best way to see the wildlife up close in their natural habitat – if you are brave enough. I felt in good hands sharing a seat with Safpar’s head canoe guide Titus, who is in his 20th season as a canoe guide. Titus is attuned to every sound, bend and channel in these waters. With such experience guiding me down the river I’m able to relax and allow the Zambezi to full my senses. Birds cry, hippos snort and ancient trees wave from the sidelines. This is a wildlife-viewing opportunity like no other. Together you seek and identify wildlife, birds and learn about the flora and fauna that make up the thriving ecosystem that is the Zambezi. This is the fourth-longest river in Africa, the longest east-flowing river in Africa and the largest flowing river into the Indian Ocean from Africa. We’re in the Upper Zambezi, approximately 40 kilometers above Victoria Falls, where I am told, much to my surprise, papyrus grows. The Zambezi is home to reedbuck and migrating eland. Carnivores found along the banks of Zimbabwe and Zambia include lion, leopard, cheetah, spotted hyena and side-striped jackal. The great floodplains are a haven for migratory water birds including pintails, garganey, African openbill, saddle-billed stork, wattled crane and the great white pelican. The Zambezi also supports several hundred species of fish, some of which are endemic to the river. Important species include cichlids which are fished heavily for food, as well as catfish, tigerfish, yellowfish and other large species. It’s time to take a break. We stop off on a stunning secluded island and laugh at the sound of the ‘talking sand’ beneath out feet. If you’re brave enough you can go for a shallow dip next to the canoes where I established a new game named ‘Rock or Croc?’ Soon we jump back into our canoes and head on our way. Quietly approaching a pod of hippos we drift on by unnoticed, allowing us all to catch our breath… very quickly holding it in again due to the smell of our wallowing friends. I feel privileged to be in their presence and their home. This is by far the best way to appreciate the beauty and tranquility of this enthralling river. With a blink of an eye our morning adventure had come to an end and we munched picnic lunch on the banks of the river before heading home to Livingstone. Next time, I’ll book the overnight canoe safari – a night on the banks of Zambezi holds promise of a great story… How to Book – Safari Par Excellence offer half-day, full-day and overnight canoe trips on the Zambezi River. Min Age 12yrs. www.safpar.com
Riding the wild waters: Zambezi White Water Festival 2018
Safari Par Excellence held their annual whitewater festival from 25th – 27th of October and I was lucky enough to attend. The weekend festivities started off with Registration where all the contestants were given their merchandise and participant wristbands and we were ready to go. The Festival kicked off with a Zambezi cruise on Thursday where rafters and paddlers were briefed, and got to know each other and their skippers as they sailed into the sunset with ice-cold gin and tonics in their paws, and grins on their faces. Little can beat a cold sundowner on the MV Makumbi The Zambezi put on its best show with hippos dancing in the water, crocodiles surfacing to see what all the fuss was about and elephants sharing a drink with us on the river’s edge. Back at the Victoria Falls Waterfront, we were welcomed by groovy tracks performed by the local and talented DJ, Claudous Hunt, and it was impossible not to shake one’s hips on the dance floor. Friday: Practice Day. We were greeted by the smell of bacon and egg rolls and coffee wafting through the early morning air, and the sight of the placid Zambezi as it drifted slowly past above Vic Falls, the calm before the storm. While fueling excited stomachs, the eight international teams listened to a hilarious, but informative safety briefing and gear check. We all hopped onto the safari vehicles and headed for the Boiling Pot at the base of Victoria Falls. Soon the teams were set and in their rafts, adrenalin pumping, ready to rumble, all still taking in the idyllic, breathtaking view. Ready to rumble Practice Day gave everyone the chance to get a feel for the river – the Zambezi is like no other river in Africa, a beast one needs to respect and understand, it has great power and is full of life. Every rafter had been gifted a hand-crafted image of Nyami-Nyami, the Zambezi river god, fastened securely around their necks to protect them. Then off we went. That day there were some epic flips, a few crocodile sightings and a delicious lunch at Rapid 10, the lunch spot with the best view I’ve ever seen – by far. Surf and turf challenge on rapid 18, aka ‘Oblivion’ There were some total wipe-outs and plenty of complete styling at Rapid 18, aka “Oblivion”, where we were shown Superman jumps from rafts, wave surfing and carnage as boats were flipped and happy rafters went swimming, all getting a taste of what was to come on Race Day. Everyone had their first taste of the hike out of the Batoka Gorge, which is a whole other mighty beast. Some left in style on a helicopter charter and others slowly trekked up the gorge, following the ways of our big friendly giants, the elephants, slow and steady while getting the opportunity to witness a view very few are privileged to ever set eyes on. Superman on rapid 18, aka ‘Oblivion’ Team Gravity styling on rapid 18, aka ‘Oblivion’ October 27, 2018: Race Day… Up bright and early, excited chatter as the rafters headed for the Falls. What a day it was, not only for the contestants but also for the local and international guests back at the lodge. At the Victoria Falls Waterfront, there was a diverse craft and food market where local entrepreneurs from far and wide came to join the day’s festivities, as well as a kids’ zone. Local artisanal products were on full display, like those from Wayawaya. Wayawaya “empowers Zambian women without formal education and with few job options,” the organisation says. “Most women live in poverty and being unemployed is a luxury they cannot afford. However, Zambian women are unquestionably resourceful, talented, strong-willed and hard-working. To invest in women is to invest in their children, their fellow sisters, their neighbours and their communities. ‘By women, for women’ is a concept inspired by the fellowship between Zambian mothers and sisters. Together, we carry out vocational training, artisan programs and form viable employment,” Wayawaya says. WAYAWAYA goods on display Hats for Africa at the market Other NGO stalls sold beautiful bags and kids’ toys, beads made from recycled glass bottles, and a mouth-watering smorgasbord of food, including from De Canton – Livingstone’s famous ice-cream shop. As the day continued, guests gathered to hear Zambia’s iconic Jay Rox perform a taster set, setting the tone for the music to follow that evening. As the sun started to set, the one and only Black Mamba Man headed on stage to give the guests a performance they wouldn’t forget. Alistair Burton, aka Black Mamba Man, is a Zimbabwean musician who performs iconic cover songs as well as his own comical and satirical original pieces, which are brilliantly witty and hilarious. His performance was followed by the eagerly anticipated prize-giving. Here a video of the competition highlights was shown, there was the raffle reveal, and finally the prize-giving. Cape Town’s Team Gravity were the winners of The Zambezi Whitewater Festival 2018, the team members won helicopter flips over the Falls, courtesy of Batoka Sky. Winning team Gravity, skippered Andrew Kellett The party rocked on into the early hours of the morning. Everyone celebrated to the sound of live music performed by Harare rock band, Evicted, who ended their gig with a Nirvana cover which sent the crowd into a complete state of frenzy. The closing act for the night was Jay Rox, and his unforgettable performance made the 2018 festival one for the books. Participants of 2018 What an epic weekend it was! Although the competition is an international one and of a very high standard, it is by no means exclusive to professional rafters and kayakers – I can confirm that. As a complete amateur, I enjoyed every minute on the river and felt fully included. This festival is one I will be telling my friends and family about for years to come. If you weren’t there this year, add it to
5 Bucket-List Moments on a Zambezi Multi-Day Rafting Trip
1. Having lunch UNDER Victoria Falls The view is quite literally jaw-dropping. Your very first lunch on the multi-day rafting trip is served under Victoria Falls – as you sit and eat, the spray cools your back. Look up to see one of the world’s natural wonders in her full glory and hear the squeals of bungee jumpers as they leap off Victoria Falls Bridge. If you fancy a swim, there is a beautifully still pool just metres away where you can cool off. This part of Victoria Falls is only accessible with a professional guide and not many get to munch lunch here. Lunch with a view – below the mighty Falls 2.Shooting the Rapids Paddling down the Zambezi may be tiring, but the adrenaline fuels you on. As you approach a rapid you start to feel the butterflies in your stomach, the horizon of the rapid appears and below you, you can hear the water roaring like a hungry beast. The Zambezi is alive, powerful and demands the utmost respect. Witness the water painting the rocks, shaping and moulding them into ever-changing artworks. Considered one of the best stretches of commercially run river in the world, Batoka Gorge provides one of the most intense sensory thrills imaginable. Its 25 white-water rapids and striking scenery deep within the sheer black cliffs afford the adrenaline junkie a wild roller-coaster ride along a route carved over millennia by the Great Zambezi. As your guide expertly reads the river and chooses a line into the surging, racing rapid – hold on tight for the ride of a lifetime. Bobbing about, water flying everywhere, people laughing and screaming, boats flipping and paddlers swimming. And then it’s all calm again. That’s the beauty of the Zambezi. Shooting down the rapids 3. Sleeping under the African Stars There is always the option to sleep in a tent, but I opted for white sands and an African starlit sky. Being down in the Batoka Gorge means there is no light pollution, so the stars appear extra vivid and bright… it’s totally mesmerising. There is something special about stars and a fire – and it doesn’t take long before my fellow raft crew start recounting incredible stories and life experiences. There is nothing quite like an African folk tale or travellers story to put all the bushbabies to sleep. To top it off when the morning arrives, you slowly emerge to a glorious auburn sunrise as it creeps along the river softly nudging the gorge and its sleepy inhabitants awake. Camp set-up above rapid no. 10 4. Seeing Moemba Falls On the third and final night you are treated to a smorgasbord of treats just above Moemba Falls, the song of the thundering water serenading you as your lips touch your ice-cold gin and tonic and your eyes peer into the sunset. This view can only be accessed by raft, making it that much more special – only a select handful of people can say they have witnessed the might of the Moemba Falls. Enjoying a cold-one above Moemba Falls 5. Disconnect in order to reconnect For many, the true treasure of a Safpar multi-day rafting trip is the total isolation and separation from our fast-paced lives and the exploration of our natural world. There’s no news, emails or cellphones out here. Here you engage with your crew, your surroundings and with yourself. Soak it up, soak it in. The rarity of being provided the space to escape is a unique privilege and I highly recommend a visit to this modern-day Narnia. Rafts parked for the night at rapid no.10 BOOK A TRIP : Safari Par Excellence (SAFPAR) have been rafting the Mighty Zambezi since 1988! The passion, experience and culture of their rafting team is second to none. Safpar is currently the only company on the Zambezi with a 100% guide certification under the International Rafting Federation. All guides are fully trained professionals and hold valid advanced first aid certificates. Safpar offer both Full Day, Overnight and Multi-Day Rafting Trips. www.safpar.com
